The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Collection



The crystal is made of mineral glass, the crown screws down, the case back is solid steel, and water resistance is a solid 100m/330ft. Lug width is 20mm and the inclusion of drilled lugs is yet another knowing and thoughtful touch that ensures any owner can be comfortable changing straps. From the proportions to the minimal dial design and replika TAG Heuer elements like the drilled lugs, the W.W.W. shows that it was made with stylish enthusiasts in mind.Where they differ from both each other and last year's releases is in color. While both feature the tone of aged-lume on the LumiBrite indices, the SPB237 sports a grey textured dial, and the SPB239 is all about a chocolate-brown dial and bezel. The theme? Earth tones.



You could say that Audemars Piguet got lucky when the original 5402 Royal Oak didn't sink the brand in 1972, but I'd argue it must have been downright clairvoyant to look beyond the quartz crisis, staff up, and make not only a great old school perpetual calendar (again, that's the 5548-25548), but then take its movement and replica Bvlgari put it into an even more risky (and challenging) platform like the Royal Oak.The Bulgari tourbillon caliber 208 falls into the second category. This isn't a brand new movement – Bulgari's used it in a previous Diva's Dream model as well as in the Serpenti Incanti – but of all their haute horlogerie calibers, it seems pretty rarely used and generally travels along with both gem-setting and other decorative crafts. That's the case here, but the movement itself has quite a bit of craft lavished on it as well.Of course, this is just one designer's vision of a modern flightmaster (and it's very impressive). It's very unlikely that Omega will revive such a niche model. But consider for a moment that going to Mars was thought impossible just a few short years ago, and now we're preparing to launch a crewed mission in less than half a decade.It’s a beautiful watch and a thoughtful second release from the brand, with many major improvements. The more you look, the more you see the attention to detail. I'll certainly give you more thoughts, but I also took as many pictures as possible so you can see the watches and make up your mind. Regardless of what anyone might say, there's no denying that the watch will also likely be a success.



In fact, against my better judgment, I'm going to declare this latest example of the Longines Spirit to be the Black Bay 58 of pilot's watches. It's a no-date sport watch in a mid-size case that echoes vintage elements without leaning full tilt into the realm of fauxtina and the like. There's even a carryover vintage element for us replika TAG Heuer to argue over (Tudor Snowflake hands vs Longines applied stars).Having referenced the Panerai-style sandwich dial a good deal, it only makes sense to make mention of an actual Panerai. And here we have the perfect synthesis of the Panerai design code. The dive-adjacent, military-inspired, watch is known for the sandwich effect that accentuates the lume, hence the name. While this watch is gargantuan at 44mm, in comparison to the Omega, it needs to be considered in competition.Ikepod used the Hemipode case for a number of different references, in a variety of metals (every color of gold; steel; titanium; even platinum): A chronograph, chronograph with GMT, the Grande Date (a chronograph with large date window at 12 o'clock). These Hemipodes used an ETA 7750 caliber with a Dubuis-Depraz chronograph module.Look closely, as the new Black Bay 54 is more than a downsized Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Keen eyes will notice no intermediate hash marks on the bezel, a new profile for the grip-edge of the bezel, and a new crown design. With a gilt-effect and slightly-domed black dial, the hands also pinch in at the base where they meet the center of the dial.






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